The New Zealand motorhome road trip that's hard to forget

The sky is showing a pre-dawn flush as New Zealand's northernmost campsite at Tapotupotu Bay shivers under a mist blanket, but people are already on the move. Like turtles from the sea, we're headed to Te Rerenga Wairua – Cape Reinga.    

Out of the valley we climb, reaching the lighthouse at the top of New Zealand for that ethereal moment when the new sun emerges at the point where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet. 

But the sunrise has an extra dimension on this wild Aupouri Peninsula rising from the body of Northland like the sword of a breaching marlin. 

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